Or How I Spent My Thirtieth Birthday
I woke up along the edge of open water west of Barrow, Alaska the day I turned thirty. I’d been sleeping on a caribou hide on a shelf of ice that extended six miles out from the shore. It was mid May, and in spring’s thaw, the sea ice had begun to split into fissures big enough for bowhead whales to surface and breathe. Big whales, they weighed up to a ton a foot, and the biggest ones could be sixty feet long. They were already migrating through the Bering Straits into the Chukchi Sea and soon they would turn eastward here into the Beaufort Sea. The Eskimo whaling crew I had joined a week earlier was camped at the edge of the first lead of open water. A walrus skin boat perched atop a small block of ice pointed outward, along with a harpoon in the bow, ready for us to push into the water and silently paddle toward our prey when it arrived.
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